TS on Share the Rare: Domaine Coche-Dury
I remember the first time someone put into focus the great chardonnay villages of the Cote de Beaune: David Lemire circa 2004. He held a white Burgundy tasting for the staff of the European and City Wine Shop. We tasted a Chassagne Montrachet, Puligny Montrachet and a Meursault. Where you can expect precision from a Puligny and power from a Chassagne, I associated Meursault with a less predictable nature.
On one side of the scale there is a raw power of unkept fruit, explosive and brazen; on the other side a firmness of lemon & lime acidity, a nuttiness and flint like minerals. These characteristics seem so contradictory and thats the magic of this village, it has it all; volumptuosness vs definition. I think it takes a truly gifted winemaker to execute such a tight rope of expression.
I am enamoured with Coche-Dury because every bottle I have enjoyed has accomplished this effortlessly. The first time I tasted one it seemed like the clouds parted. The overwhelming memory of that bottle was that it was so utterly delicious, I didn’t want it to end.
Not all wines have this energy and when you meet one, you don’t want to let it go.