TS on Share The Rare: Giacomo Conterno Monfortino
The wines of Giacomo Conterno have been prominent in my vinous history. My understanding of Piedmont has evolved in parallel with the tiers of pedigree of Conterno. In Jan 2009, I enjoyed my first Giacomo Conterno, Barbera d’Alba 2006. It was shared on its home soil in Piemonte, Trattoria delle Posta, just outside of the village Monforte d’Alba. We were a small band of sommeliers travelling to absorb as much of Barolo as possible in a lightening quick weekend trip. The memory of that bottle was a wine of unexpected concentration and density. Such a humble grape, seemingly exulted far beyond my expectations.
Just over a year later, working at Rockpool Bar & Grill Melbourne, we received our first allocation of Cascina Francia Barolo 2005. At this stage, I had enjoyed many bottles of various Barolo, but again this estate stopped me and forced me to reconsider the nobility of Barolo. I consider wines of ‘stature’ to walk a fine line: elegance laced with power. This wine was so perfumed and feminine aromatically but astonishingly mouth filling and robust on the palate, without being bullish.
After another year working at Rockpool, it was time to move on and as parting gift from the wine team, I was bestowed a bottle of the 2002 Monfortino. I remember our allocation was 4 bottles that year. Its rarity compelled me to share it with my now ex-colleagues. The line up of wines at Sosta Cucina that afternoon included Domaine de la Romanee Conti and Bruno Giacosa, however the 02 Monfortino floated above these bench mark wines. Finesse; poise; muscle and sinew; concentration- these adjectives independently do not give justice to describe that bottle, but in combination and cumulatively it begins to outline this kind of majesty. Now, after many more years of experience, there is always a pause when a bottle of Monfortino is opened. A reverence.
Share this with us on Sunday 30th April, 2017. See full details in EVENTS.